Day 1: 11/4/19
***All sessions to take place in Lecture Theatre, 7th Floor, EBC, unless noted***

11.00: Welcome and Opening Remarks



11.15-12.15: Panel 1 (2 speakers)
(Chair: DA)
– Geoffrey Hunt, Maria Herold and Tamar Antin (Aarhus/ISASF) Masculinity And Belonging:

Identity Related Aspects Of Alcohol Use And Intoxication Among Young Adults In Rural

– Oli Carter-Esdale (Bristol): Brewing a neoliberal empire: Intoxicated Masculinity, Anarcho-

Capitalism and Pink-Washing in Brewdog’s “Business for Punks”

12.15-13.15: Panel 2 (2 speakers)
(Chair: SG)
– David Beckingham, (Nottingham): New temperance cultures?
– Emily Nicholls (Portsmouth): Out of place or making sober space? Women’s experiences of

early sobriety
13.15-14.15 Lunch (foyer space, 7th Floor, EBC)

14.15-15.45: Panel 3 (3 speakers)
(Chair: IM)
– Thomas Thurnell Read (Loughborough): No Sleep Till Dewsbury: Rhythm and Booze on the

Transpennine Real Ale Trail
– John O’Brien (WIT): The Monto, McDaids and Temple Bar: Dublin, Drinking Scenes, and

– David Alder (Bournemouth): TBC.

15.45-16:00: Tea break (Foyer)
1600–17.20: Keynote: Claire Markham (Lincoln): ‘Changing gender attitudes towards

drinking in rural spaces’

17.20-17.30: Concluding remarks and instructions for dinner/evening Day 2: 12/4/19

10-11: Panel 1:
(Chair: DA)
David McQueen (Bournemouth): The gruit ale tradition: traces of the European Reformation in modern brewing
Catherine Clarke (IHR): Heritage, Place-making and Drinking: St Thomas Way Ale

11-11.15: Tea break (foyer)

11.15-12.45: Panel 2
(Chair: SG)
– Darren Lilleker (Bournemouth): Civic engagement in third places: the micropub as civic hub – Phil Mellows (Independent): The New Drinking Spaces: Micropubs and Tap Rooms
– Iain MacRury (Bournemouth): Wetherspoons and Brexit as Branded Content.



12.45-13.45: Lunch (Foyer)
13.45-14.45: Roundtable discussion/future DSN Cluster activities: (SG)

Including staff from Wight Bear, Silverback, Poole Hill Brewery, Crafty Cow)

14.45-16.15. Panel 3
(Chair: IM)
– Mario de Benedittis (Università degli Studi di Milano): Practices, Fields And Agents Of

Expert Wine Tasting.
– Colleen Myles (Texas State): ‘A big fish in a small pond’: How Arizona wine country was

– Diarmuid Cawley (TU Dublin): The Changing Arenas of ‘Wine Speak’.

16.15-16.30 Closing remarks

Panel 1: 11.15-12.15

Book of Abstracts:Day 1: 11th April 2019


1. Geoffrey Hunt, Maria Herold and Tamar Antin (Aarhus University, Denmark & Institute for Scientific Analysis, San Francisco): Masculinity And Belonging:
Identity Related Aspects Of Alcohol Use And Intoxication Among Young Adults In Rural Settings

The general sparsity of research on rural youthful drinking reflects two characteristics of youth studies research: First as Farrugia (2014) has noted, youth studies have primarily focused on urban youth while rural youth have been largely excluded. Researchers have tended to follow the popular conception that the important developments in youth cultures are located within the urban areas and have emphasized the importance of urban cultural symbols and metropolitan youth cultures. This perspective has meant that rural youth havebeen viewed by researchers as relatively uninteresting and “sociologically insignificant.”Young people in the rural parts are generally marginalized and uninteresting precisely because they are located and positioned outside the important “cultural processes” ofurban life (Farrugia 2014). Consequently, youth studies theory has been developed to explain developments within the lives of urban youth. Thus, even when some researchers focus on youth in rural settings, they tend to do so through a metropolitan lens (Cuervo and Wyn 2012). Second, and reflecting this overall pre-occupation to focus on youth in urban settings, it is therefore not surprising that research on drinking among rural youth has been much less voluminous (Jayne, Valentine, & Holloway, 2011), although an increase in the available literature on young people, drinking and rural studies has very recently occurred.

It is therefore against this background that we hope that the discussion contained in this paper will contribute to the recent literature on young people in rural areas. More


specifically, using recent developments in research on rural settings, especially on gender, gender norms and masculinity, coupled with narrative data from 23 interviews with young people (18-25) living in rural Denmark, we will suggest that gendered drinking practicesoperating within rural settings are related both to “traditional” gender norms as well as the increasingly skewed gender composition of the rural population, with more young women leaving than young men. We will also examine the usefulness of the concept of belonging(Antonsich, 2010) to explore the relationship between a sense of place-belongingness, notions of rurality, drinking practices and performances of masculinity and femininity for young people living in rural areas.

2. Oli Carter-Esdale (University of Bristol): Brewing a neoliberal empire: Intoxicated Masculinity, Anarcho-Capitalism and Pink-Washing in Brewdog’s “Business for Punks”.
The role of masculinity within drinking, beer and brewing culture is well established. Building on the work of Nathaniel G. Chapman, Megan Nanney, J. Slade Lellock & Julie MiklesSchluterman’s “Bottling Gender: accomplishing gender through craft beer consumption”(2017), this paper looks at Brewdog as a specifically masculine force within the global Craft Beer market. I use exploration and criticism of its marketing strategies, stunts and specificpress release literature as a means of tracking the trajectory of the brand’s inherentlymasculine influences on its transformation from a 50 litre microbrewery in a Fraserburgh garage, to its current status as a multinational mega-corporation with a billion pound valuation as of 2017. Initially deconstructing the targeted deployment of specifically masculine-coded imagery and consciously masculinized rhetoric through the hazy lens of purported postmodernism, I move onto examine the role of masculinity’s role in the expansionism of Brewdog’s growing, globalized bar empire. In so doing, I expose theneoliberal and cultural neo-imperialist tendencies of Brewdog as a modern beer enterprise’sethos and the particular sourness of any claims to ‘revolutionary’ status found in the company’s “Business for Punks” own commoditization of feminism and queer identity politicsfor capitalist accumulation.

Panel 2: 12.15-13.15

1. David Beckingham (University of Nottingham): New temperance cultures?

Dry January, new sober campus cultures and falling alcohol sales have all attracted the comment of various feature and leader writers. As has the influence of public health campaigns in shaping supply-side interventions – most notably minimum unit pricing. From the perspective of my historical research, which centres on the ambition and organisation of temperance, the social or demand-led changes, especially amongst so-called millennials, also merit attention. In this talk I will consider the utility of a long view of temperance for analysing these seemingly new trends. By outlining some of the distinguishing characteristics of Victorian temperance I will consider the extent to which those older campaigns – and the broader appeal to historical parallels – are helpful for analysing today’scultures and spaces of drinking and not drinking.

2. Emily Nicholls (University of Portsmouth): Out of place or making sober space?Women’s experiences of early sobriety
The pervasiveness of dominant drinking cultures in the UK and other Western drinking contexts has led researchers to argue that we experience an ongoing and relentless



‘imperative to intoxication’ (Griffin et al. 2009) where regularly drinking to excess is not onlynormalised but practically ‘compulsory’. Against this backdrop, it may be difficult for womento resist expectations to drink excessively or to articulate alternative subjectivities based on abstinence, yet research involving those who abstain or decide to stop consuming alcoholremains very limited (Conroy and de Visser 2014), particularly outside of the ‘wet’ spaces ofuniversity campuses (see for example Herman-Kinney and Kinney 2013). This paper will draw on emerging findings from my ongoing research project exploring the experiences ofwomen in early sobriety, particularly the ways in which they tell ‘stories’ about thetransition to sobriety and the way they (re)negotiate space, place and identities as non- drinkers. I will situate my findings against a backdrop of emerging online spaces – such as online communities and blogs – that celebrate sobriety as a positive lifestyle choice and arefacilitating the development of ‘a new sober peer culture’ (Herman-Kinney and Kinney 2013: 93). However, with non-drinking still regarded as an ‘atypical lifestyle choice’ (Conroy and de Visser 2013: 1435) and ‘a form of deviance’ (Romo et al. 2016: 337), it is also importantto explore the ways in which non-drinkers engage with – or avoid – public / drinking spaces and manage feelings of discomfort, judgement or rejection in social spaces and settings.

Panel 3: 14.15-15.45

1. Thomas Thurnell-Read, (Loughborough University) No Sleep Till Dewsbury: Rhythm and Booze on the Transpennine Real Ale Trail
Ale Trails, where a series of pubs noted for serving real ale and craft beer are linked together along a prescribed route followed either on foot or by bus or train, are now a well- established activity in the UK and beyond. One of the most prominent examples of this is the Transpennine Real Ale Trail which links eight villages and towns along the Manchester to Leeds line. Ale Trails in general have been praised for encouraging sociable outings which bring customers to otherwise struggling rural and suburban pubs whilst the Transpennine Real Ale Trail in particular has featured prominently in the media, most notably in the BBC series Oz and James Drink to Britain, as a quintessential expression of British (drinking) culture. Yet, in recent years the Transpennine Real Ale Trail has courted controversy and hasbeen described as being ‘hijacked’ by large groups of rowdy drinkers, including numerousstag and hen parties, who eschew the studied appreciation of real ale and craft beerconnoisseurship in favour of ‘binge drinking’ and its associated disorderly behaviour. Thispaper will present findings from a group ethnographic study of the Transpennine Real AleTrail and will use Lefebvre’s model of rhythmanalysis to explore the various alignments andconflicts between the spatial, temporal and affective dimensions of drinking and drunkenness found amongst various actors along the Ale Trail.

2. John O’Brien (Waterford Institute of Technology). The Monto, McDaids and Temple Bar: Dublin, Drinking Scenes, and Creativity
The paper will examine the link between artistic creativity and place, through examining the relationship of creative activity and spaces in which there is a liquefaction of structure, through association with the night, commerce, alcohol, intoxication and sex. The concrete focus will be on Dublin, and three ages of its night-time economy, and how they are imagined in the present. The first is the early 20th Century red light district of Dublin, the‘Monto’, the second is the post-WWII drinking scene of Brendan Behan and JP Donleavy, and the third is the contemporary core of night-time activity: Temple Bar. They represent


layers of imagination upon which the succeeding eras are formed, and are part of an invention of tradition in which place is conjured through a construction of heritage. The Monto is immortalised in cultural memory through its depiction in the Circe episode ofJoyce’s Ulysses, and through the 1966 Dubliner’s recording of Take her up to Monto, and more obliquely in Roisín Murphy’s 2016 album of the same name. The drinking scene ofDonleavy and company is crystallised in his novel The Gingerman. Both are examples of liminality in an otherwise highly structured society. Finally, it will be shown how Temple Bar, and its night-time economy is a product of creative-city thinking, where the promotion of licence becomes official policy, unlike in the uneasy tolerance of the earlier eras. However, the creativity of this latest scene of intoxication will be questioned.

3. David Alder (Bournemouth University): TBC

Keynote Speaker: 4-17.20
Dr Claire Markham (University of Lincoln) ‘Changing gender attitudes towards drinking in rural spaces’

This paper considers changing attitudes towards alcohol and drinking practices in rural spaces. In particular, it looks at how perceptions and experiences of 21st century female drinking and drunkenness are rooted in early temperance campaigns. By looking at female drinking through the lens of early temperance campaigns (in which female drunkenness wasseen as worse than men’s’) it explores how and why today’s female drinkers are ‘expected’ to behave in ‘controlled’ ways when drinking in rural spaces. Additionally, it shows how many of today’s perceptions and experiences of drinking per se are modified reflections ofthe temperance movement in England. In doing this the paper argues that temperance campaigns have had a broad role in the gendered construction of drinking and drunkenness in rural spaces.The paper is informed by temperance literature and in-depth interviews carried out between 2010 and 2013 as part of a grounded theory study which explored how rural inhabitants and connected actors of today perceive and experience the village pub (Markham, 2014). Additional insights are provided from literature on the history and sociology of rural pubs and of wider rural communities during the twentieth century.

Panel 1: 10-11am

Day 2: 12th April 2019


1. David McQueen The gruit ale tradition: traces of the European Reformation in modern brewing.
This paper explores the causes of the decline in gruit ale production since the 15th century

across Europe, but particularly in Protestant countries such as Germany and Britain. Itoutlines the ancient roots of herbal flavouring of beer and the development of the ‘gruit’tradition which included the use of yarrow, (wild) rosemary and bog myrtle. These and other herbs, some of which had a mildly narcotic effect, predate the use of hops. Hops, which came into more widespread use in Germany and the low countries from around the thirteenth century and in Britain from the late fifteenth century eventually overtook the

gruit tradition for a number of complex reasons. The preservative quality of hops allowed for transportation of beer to more distant markets and stimulated the growth of larger breweries which may have helped shift popular tastes away from unhoped ale to more


bitter ‘beers’. However, the collection and taxation of many of the herbs used in gruit ales was often controlled by the Catholic Church and the decline in the gruit tradition was most marked in Protestant countries, such as Germany, where purity laws effectively outlawed many traditional ingredients. This paper traces this politically-infused history of gruit ale and offers a snapshot of gruit brewing practices around Europe with a special focus on the microbreweries in the UK which continue the tradition. The session will conclude with a sample taste of gruit ale and a look at the wide range of ingredients that were used in its production.

Dr David McQueen is a brewer and researches gruit in the production of Stone Angel – a

medieval style ale. http://www.stoneangel.co.uk


2. Catherine Clarke: Heritage, Place-making and Drinking: St Thomas Way Ale

The AHRC-funded St Thomas Way project (2017-18; http://www.thomasway.ac.uk) developed a new heritage route from Swansea to Hereford, inspired by a real medieval pilgrimage. The goals of the project included place-making, tourism capacity building, and regional development, linking less well-known heritage tourism destinations with established visitor sites through the narrative of the Welsh outlaw William Cragh, who was hanged in Swansea in 1290 but came back to life and journeyed to the shrine of St Thomas at Hereford Cathedral to give thanks. A more unusual ‘research output’ of this project was produced inpartnership with the micro-brewery Mumbles Brewery in Swansea: ‘St Thomas Way’ ale (also available labelled ‘Hanged Man Walking’). As an ongoing commercial venture, the alehas helped Mumbles Brewery expand its regional reach and find new stockists (pubs and other outlets along the route). For the St Thomas Way project, the ale has been used as an outreach and marketing tool, engaging diverse communities and user constituencies, and involving audiences in new ways. Through the case study of St Thomas Way ale, this paper will reflect on the intersections between drinking, micro-brewing, local cultures, history / heritage and place-making today.

Panel 2: 11.15-12.45

1. Darren Lilleker (Bournemouth University): Civic engagement in third places: the micropub as civic hub
Mankind normally inhabits two places: home and work, leisure time is spent with family or close friends. The provision of physical third places, which allows sociability with a wider social network, has been eroded to the detriment of participatory democracy. While some suggest technology facilitates the creation of digital third spaces, it is questionable whether these spaces offer the same affordances of third places. With a built in architecture to drive sociability we propose micropubs offer the potential to fill this gap and so we should consider if and how they can arrest the decline of engagement with participatory democracy. We conceptualise micropubs as third places drawing on the work of Oldenburg,the “places that host the regular, voluntary, informal and happily anticipated gatherings of individuals beyond the realms of work and home” which promote equality through the espoused value of “downward association in an uplifting manner’. Drinking was seen at theheart of the third place: the bierstube or tavern and in particular the British public housecelebrated by Scitovsky as ‘more about socialising than drinking’. While an anti-alcohol backlash, higher taxes, and supermarkets undercutting pubs by selling cheap alcohol has



seen pub numbers halve over the last century, in the last 5 years 257 micropubs haveopened to “promote conversation. Drawing on interviews with publicans and regulars oflocal micropubs, as well as participant observation, the pilot study offers insights into the micropub as a third place which has the potential to re-engage citizens in civic life

2. Phil Mellows (Independent) The New Drinking Spaces: Micropubs and Tap Rooms

Against the current of pub closures, and against the common perception that pubs need to be food-led to survive in the marketplace, recent years have seen the emergence, and fast growth, of two styles of pub where drinking, specifically drinking beer, dominates: the micropub and the brewery tap room. Both have been driven by objective circumstances: the micropub by the 2003 Licensing Act and the recession; the tap room by the proliferation of microbreweries and the economics and logistics of brewing. Both share some characteristics, too, notably a desire for informal, sociable spaces, an ‘authentic’ experienceand good beer.

They tend, however, to attract very different kinds of customer with very different drinking behaviours. The micropub can be seen as a modern interpretation of the beer houses thatsprang up following the 1830s Beer Act and reflect a nostalgia for a ‘proper pub’, serving mostly ‘real ale’ to mostly middle-aged men. The on-site brewery tap room, however, is a genuinely modern phenomenon that attracts a diverse demographic keen to explorenovelty and an authentic experience that derives not from ‘tradition’ but from a proximityto artisan production and producers. I shall compare and contrast these new drinking spaces, present the latest numbers and trends, ask what lies behind their popularity andwhat it means for changing drinking behaviours and the evolution of ‘the pub’ in Britishsociety.

3. Iain MacRury (Bournemouth): Wetherspoons and Brexit as Branded Content ABSTRACT TO FOLLOW

13.45-14.45 – Roundtable discussion/Future DSN Cluster Activities

(Sam Goodman) Roundtable discussion including local brewers and distillers.

Panel 3: 14.45-16.15.

1. Mario de Benedittis (Università degli Studi di Milano) Practices, Fields And Agents Of Expert Wine Tasting
In sociology, practices of expert wine tasting have been studied almost exclusively focusing on:

  1. a)  dynamics involving sommeliers, analyzing what happens during the courses, the language used, the actions implemented by novices following training courses in wine bars;
  2. b)  the enological critique, facing rarely others technical tastings like those involving, for example, oenologists.

More generally, the reflection is often oriented to aspects linked to perception, cognition, or classification. The technical tasting is instead a set of practices involving different social worlds and professional roles, depending on who is the taster and where and when the tasting happens: selectors for a distribution, wine sellers, agronomists, winemakers, producers, sommeliers, organizers of fairs, judges of a competition, members of a D.O.C.


commission, journalists, bloggers, and – not least – wine enthusiasts technically well prepared, who are often involved alongside these figures, interacting in and influencing the tasting practices. The present contribution moves from a wide-ranging research on the wine field in Italy, in progress for over four years, based on interviews and on enactive ethnography conducted in many of the roles mentioned above. It discuss the interweaving of skills (tasting techniques, oenological knowledge, etc.), meanings (critical classifications, categories such as “natural” “biodynamic”) and materials (glasses, spittoons, the wine itself) that constitute tasting practices, paying attention to the processes of incorporation and to the logics of social fields involved in these processes, highlighting as much the weight of the individual trajectories of the tasting agents as the position occupied in the fields and sub- fields.

2. Colleen Myles (Texas State University): ‘A big fish in a small pond’: How Arizona winecountry was made
Despite environmental and economic odds stacked against them, public and private actors have managed to construct a wine landscape in the high desert of Arizona in the Western United States. The Arizona wine industry is characterized by a spatial disconnect between where most wine grapes are grown (mainly in the south) and where wine tourism dominates (mainly in the north), a divide that reflects the environmental and culturallandscapes of the state. Arizona’s notable tourist landmarks and the positioning of its majorurban centers make the north a more feasible and desirable tourism destination; nevertheless, grape growers and wine producers in the south are actively seeking to capture greater value from their grapes and associated wine landscapes, a challenging task given the difficulty of luring visitors without the appeal of other nearby tourist sites or amenities. This paper examines the wine industry in Arizona as a classic fermented landscape, one which demonstrates the symbolic and material significance of fermentation-focused landscape change. Using qualitative, quantitative, and spatial techniques, we explore how and why, in this place, various actors have pursued the production of winegrapes and wine in a difficult environment and built a tourism destination based around the consumption of the rural landscape.

3. Diarmuid Cawley (TU Dublin): The Changing Arenas of ‘Wine Speak’.

Wine language has evolved from a more technical, economic and sophisticated format to one which today embellishes authenticity, image and cultural capital. In 1975 Decanter Magazine was launched in Britain and quickly became an arena for dedicated wine writers and aficionados. Wine magazines, although specific in their overall theme, were liminal spaces from which a unique vocabulary emerged. The language used to describe and promote wine has its own rhetoric, which to those lacking the cultural capital to engage with it, can result in a lack of meaning and social exclusion. This was especially true in the first decades of Decanter where the writers creating this vocabulary became powerful mediators between the producer and the consumer, setting the tone of wine for decades to come, one that was often bourgeois, stuffy and sexist. The modern discourse about wine is more malleable and democratised. Wine writing proliferates social media, much of it bombastic, and is interwoven with complex 21st-century consumerism. Capturing and posting images of wines with significant cachet, especially while drinking in popular wine bars or restaurants, can signify an avoidance of conventionalism while fuelling social status. The spaces, online and physical, which have been formed by this new mutable vocabulary,


in turn, reinforce its usage, ensuring its continuation through connectivity. The persona of the new wine writer has become as significant as traditional wine writers albeit in a liberal and retractable sense.